Food and Drink in Ireland by Elizabeth FitzPatrick

Author:Elizabeth FitzPatrick
Language: eng
Format: epub
ISBN: 978-1-908997-10-4
Publisher: Royal Irish Academy
Published: 2016-11-18T05:00:00+00:00

PL. IV—Eighteenth-century brass dredger. © Madeline Shanahan.

Cooking

As we would expect, vessels which needed to withstand the heat of the fire, oven or stove were made of metal or were ceramic. Metal cookware mentioned in recipes throughout the period, from the late seventeenth century on, includes pots (‘bellmattle’, brass, tin); skillets (small, great, large, copper, brass); griddles; stewpans (broad, small); saucepans; cauldrons; a variety of pans (preserving, frying, brass, tin); and kettles. Fish kettles and omelette (omelet) pans are mentioned only from the mid-eighteenth century, and demonstrate the development of more specialised, highly functionalised forms in the kitchen. Ceramic cookware forms mentioned include earthen pans, crocks, pipkins, and pots in a variety of sizes, colours and finishes.

Vessels and items used for baking specifically are also mentioned. What we would think of as cake tins today were generally called ‘shapes’ in the manuscripts of this period. These shapes were commonly made out of tin. Copper and tin baking trays or ‘sheets’ are also mention, as are ‘bisket’ pans and patty pans, which were used to bake small cakes.

Food service

Given that recipe books focus more on food preparation than on serving, they provide considerably less information on tableware. However, a few types of vessels are described and the findings are consistent with past studies of such objects undertaken by historical archaeologists in Britain.35 Various vessels such as plates, dishes, trenchers, platters, basons, bowls, ewers, tureens and porringers were used to serve food. However, the references to them demonstrate that many of these terms could be used to refer to multiple, different items. The term ‘dish’, in particular, filled a variety of functions, being used to prepare, cook and store food. However, while ‘dish’ may be a general, ‘catch-all’ term, dishes were not all the same, and they were certainly not used for all purposes. Dishes made out of expensive materials such as silver, pewter and china are listed as serving vessels. Additional details regarding the size, shape and also the colour of ceramic dishes are sometimes provided. Occasionally, the exact food to be served in a dish is specified, so we see butter, soup, trifle and ‘sallat’ (salad) dishes mentioned from the seventeenth century. Lobster and stew dishes are mentioned in the eighteenth century. A variety of differently sized, shaped and coloured bowls are indicated too; these include cheney (decorated earthenware), and fruit and punch bowls from the mid-eighteenth century. The variety of different types of dishes with specific descriptions increased significantly over the period.

Glasses are another type of serving vessel which is mentioned frequently. They were used to hold a variety of jelly- and cream-based desserts, as well as beverages. ‘Jelly glasses’ and ‘wine glasses’ are specifically referred to throughout the period. Silver tankards and goblets are also mentioned, but relate specifically to alcohol consumption.

Chafing dishes were important for ensuring that food arrived to the dining room hot after the sometimes long journey from the kitchen. They also kept the food hot for the length of the meal itself. The manuscripts reviewed

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